Melbourne Bowls Club

East Riding of Yorkshire

An Idiot’s Guide to Melbourne Village Hall Bowls Club – Flat Green for 2025 (Amended 4th April 2025 PPG)

List of Contents

Introduction
The basics regarding the club
Competitions
Bowling Etiquette
Basic rules you should know
Bowls Strategy
Some thoughts for beginners from an idiot
E.B.F (English Bowls Federation)
Conclusion

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Introduction

As we approach the start of my 11th season with the club and I review this document once again, I realise that I still have much to learn!

The aim if this document is to help new members learn about the weird and wonderful world of Melbourne Bowls Club. It should also prove to be useful to those longer-term members who are still coming to terms with the format of club competitions, the etiquette of the game and the basic rules. It will also include some hints and tips to help to improve your enjoyment and to raise skill levels.

The Basics

The outdoor season runs from the end of April to the first weekend in September – depending upon the weather. We start with an Open Day in April and finish with our Finals Day in September. The club celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2017. We have a reputation for being a small friendly club that produces a number of county level bowlers. Other teams enjoy visiting the club.

Costs – Our annual membership fee is £70 payable in April. This is reduced to £35 for new members in their first season and those members who choose to play only on the Tuesday afternoon club sessions. We also pay £3 each if you are chosen to play in matches. The entry fee for our club handicap league is £3 per match. There are no other costs.

Dress Code - For all competitive matches – county, league and club, you must wear a white shirt (or club shirt) and grey trousers. Ladies can wear a grey skirt and, I guess in this PC world we now live in, we could not object if a male member wanted to wear a skirt providing it was grey! Sweaters, jumpers, etc must also be white. Proper bowls shoes must be worn on the green. It is a good idea to have white
waterproof gear and a hat to keep the sun and rain out of your eyes. The Bowls Shop in Holme on Spalding Moor is good place to purchase all of your bowls gear at competitive prices although other retailers are available!

Equipment – You will need a set of 4 matching woods. If you are a beginner it is better to borrow a set of woods before purchasing a new set. Second hand woods can be acquired relatively cheaply. You will also need a measurer and chalk. It is a good idea to have a small towel to
dry the bowls when it is raining as it will help you to grip the bowls. You can also purchase various potions, lotions and gloves that will also help you to grip your bowls in the wet.

Playing games and practice – As a member of the club you can practice on the green at any time after 1pm on week days and after 10am on weekends. We also have a club afternoon every Tuesday afternoon from 2pm throughout the season.

This season we have agreed to play South to North one week and then East to West the following week, then South to North, etc. This has been introduced to reduce wear and tear on the green. However, team captains can choose to play any way if they wish.

In order to further reduce the wear and tear on the green, we use red, white and blue markers to change the section of green we play on. A guide in the window of the club house shows you which direction and colour to use in any particular week.
The green is divided into six rinks both north/south and west/east. Each rink has red, white and blue markers. Unsurprisingly, the rinks are numbered 1 to 6 so that numpties like me can follow what’s going on. Bowling west to east, rink 1 is the rink nearest the village hall. Bowling south to north, rink 1 is nearest the car park.

Competitions

Melbourne Bowls Club Competitions for 2025. Cost – Included in your club fees

Gents Singles (EBA - 4 bowl singles, 21 up)
Ladies Singles (EBA - 4 bowl singles, 21 up)
Handicap (4 bowl singles, 21 up – Ladies/Gents)
Frank Arnold (for those who haven’t previously won a singles competition, 4 bowl singles, 21 up – Ladies/Gents)
Gents Singles (EBF 2 bowl singles 21 up)
Ladies Singles (EBF 2 bowl singles 21 up)
Gents Pairs (4 bowls, 18 ends)
Ladies Pairs (4 bowls 18 ends)
Mixed Pairs (4 bowls 18 ends – Ladies/Gents)
New this season: Aussie Pairs (4 bowls 18 ends)
Club Champion (4 bowls, 21 up - open to any club member with a pulse)
Ladies Captains Day- Handicap completion - men provide food and act as markers
Gents Captains Day - Handicap competition - ladies provide food and act as markers

More information on some of the Competitions:

Ladies Singles EBA - Any lady.
Ladies Singles EBF – Any lady. Winner goes forward to county draw for next year. Club will pay your entry fee for County.
Ladies Pairs – Partners will be drawn from entry pool.
Mixed Pairs – All members. Name your partner on entry form.
Men’s Singles EBA - Any man.
Men’s Singles EBF – Any man. Winner can go forward to county drawto play in qualifiers of Nationals next year. Club will pay your entry fee.
Aussie Pairs - All members. Partners will be drawn from the entry pool.
Men’s Pairs – Partners will be drawn from entry pool.

Some Guidelines: -

These competitions are a good way of testing your skills whilst having a bit of fun.
White or club shirts, grey trousers, etc must be worn in these competitions.
For singles matches, you should ask for a marker. This person will keep the score, set up the jack, advise you on what is happening at the head, if asked, will measure, if asked, and keep order in case of disputes.
You must draw the rink you play on using the numbers held in the bag hanging next to the club house door.
You must toss a coin to ascertain who will bowl first. The winner can choose whether or not to bowl first or second but, thereafter, the winner of each end will bowl first. The first person/team to play is the ‘home’ team on the scorecard in club competitions.
I would recommend that all beginners enter the Frank Arnold (a competition for those who have not won a singles competition) and the Handicap competition. As a beginner, you will be given a favourable handicap, say 10 shots, and your scorecard should start with 10 in this example. You therefore only need 11 shots more to win the match. Previous winners are not allowed to enter the Frank Arnold cup which does increase your chances of success.
The draw for the competitions will be shown in the club house. This will include a date by which the matches must be played. It is up to all competitors to arrange matches to ensure they are all played in time for Finals Day.

Guidelines for Marker
When playing a singles match, you will need a marker basically to centre the jack, keep the score and to quell any riots. Everyone should be able to act as a marker, especially for the club competitions. I therefore submit the following guidelines in order to help you.

Make sure that you know the rules of the competition you are marking.
Ensure that you have the necessary equipment. i.e. pen, scorecard, chalk, measures and wedges.
Introduce yourself to both competitors and enter their names on a scorecard.
Establish which bowls belong to which player.
Indicate that you intend to mark or indicate touchers as soon as possible after the bowl has come to rest.

During play:-

Ensure that the mat is properly placed and that the jack is centred at a legal distance from the front of the mat before the first bowl is played
Remain still, behind and to the side of the rink while a bowl is being played, making sure that you do not obscure the boundary markers or that your shadow falls on the jack.
Do not approach the head unless it is to mark a toucher, remove chalk marks, indicate a toucher or to answer questions.
Mark the jack and touchers in the ditch. Remove “dead” bowls with the permission of the players and ask players if a “live” bowl is in or out.
Be as accurate as possible when giving distances between jack and bowls, and if unsure, which is shot when asked to do so. If you are still unsure which is shot say “it’s a measure”. I said that the wrong bowl was shot in one of my early marking duties - the player concerned was very vexed - I learned this lesson the hard way! Do not volunteer any information unless asked - keep your mouth firmly shut
Only measure shots when asked to do so by the players. If the bowls are likely to fall before or during a measure then use wedges.
Do not disturb or break up the head, this should only be done by the players.
Before marking the scorecard, ensure that you know which player has been awarded the shot or shots.
Inform both players the state of the score at the completion of every end. At Melbourne we tend to use a scoreboard to fulfil this responsibility.

All of the above can seem to be a bit boring but I enjoy marking matches. You get a chance to see some very good matches at close hand and it gives you a good insight as to how various people play - their strengths and weakness, etc.

Melbourne’s Handicap league.
This is a fun competition run by our competition secretary. It was introduced several years ago in order to help raise club funds and to get new members used to playing competitive matches where the main objective is enjoyment. As the name suggests, it is a handicap competition designed to give newer members a good chance of success. To date, a new member has always won this trophy. I
am not going to try to explain the handicap system in this document mainly because I do not understand it! The rules are refined by the competition secretary each year which also adds to the mystery of what on earth is going on. I have to say, however, they are always enjoyable evenings with lots of laughter.

New last season - Friday afternoon Aussie Pairs league
The aim of this league is to provide club members with another source of competitive bowls without any real pressure. Aussie Pairs gives players the chance to play both as the first player to bowl in each team and also to act as the team captain at each end played. Pip has issued a comprehensive guide to this competition and it looks like a good source of fun whilst providing a great way to improve your game.

League Matches and County Matches
These matches take priority over club matches when it comes to choosing rinks. Please bear this in mind when arranging a club match.
Team captains are responsible for selecting teams, bringing milk, biscuits, setting up the tea cups, the tea pot, etc. It goes without saying that all team members should support the captains by helping to set up the green, to clear the green after the match, the washing up, help with green maintenance and fund raising.

Bowling Etiquette - Very important!

Bowls remains one of the few sports where common courtesy and etiquette is still prevalent. We should all be proud of this and, in order to make the game as enjoyable as possible, bowling green etiquette should be promoted by members, both old and new. Much of the following is common sense but here are the main rules of etiquette.

Players and spectators at the head end should stand still and keep quiet.
When it’s your team’s turn to bowl, it is your mat and head. It becomes your headas soon as the opposition wood comes to rest. Your opponents should be away from the mat and head, if they are not, please request them (nicely) to move.
Wait for your skip to tell you which shot you should play and keep up with play at all times.
There should be no trespassing into neighbouring rinks; this includes going to or from the clubhouse, moving to better see the jack, and, particularly, when walking from one end of your green to the other. Please be aware of others playing. If you are helping your teammate aim, do not infringe upon neighbouring rinks.
Walk up the centre of the rink with minimum delay.
After bowling each bowl, step off the mat to the right. As you approach the mat to bowl, do so from the rear left. Though not essential, this is a useful habit of convenience to avoid collisions!
Always show good sportsmanship by acknowledging a display of good skill by another bowler.
Never applaud lucky shots, never complain about lucky shots, and admit a lucky shot with good grace. Do not say thanks for a bad shot that goes your way.
Do not criticise the playing surface.
Never ever criticise the performance of colleagues. No one plays a bad bowl on purpose. Confidence plays a major part in all sports. Criticising team mates is a sure-fire way of destroying confidence and driving members away from the club. Be nice to your team mates and the opposition.
Avoid delaying play by leaving the rink without the knowledge of the other players.
NEVER interfere with the head until the results of the end have been agreed upon.
If an Umpire is called, move away, you’re done, his/her decision is final.
Bowlers should always shake hands before and at the end of a game.
Be a gracious winner and a good loser.
The plinth area of the green is fragile and should be treated with care. This includes, but is not limited to, wearing proper footwear, not dropping or tossing bowls on the green, and not spitting or pouring liquids (water, coffee, etc.) on the green.
Punctuality for all games is a courtesy to the other players.
While standing at the head end waiting for the player on the mat to bowl, stand between the markers so the bowler can see and use the markers to aim.
Generally, the vice or skip at the head will signal the bowler on the mat the position of bowls in the head using hand signals denoting for and against.
Bowlers not raking the bowls after an end should assist by kicking the bowls into an approximate line, thus making raking easier and faster.
Players at the head end should be ready to stop deflected bowls from crossing into the adjacent rink and interfering with neighbouring games; likewise, be alert to prevent bowls from adjacent rinks from messing up your own head. Pay attention!
No rules prohibit bowlers running after their bowl but you must try to arrive at the head before your bowl stops. However, some clubs consider following your bowl up the green poor etiquette.
One minute between the time when the opponent's bowl stops and the next bowler delivers his/her bowl should be sufficient. When there is clear violation, an umpire or club official who is notified should take action.
All bowlers are urged to have chalk and a measuring tape when bowling so that bowls that touch the jack can be immediately marked and, if necessary at the finish of an end, measuring can be undertaken without delay.
All bowlers should remember to clear the equipment from your rink after your game.
Please remember that you must not use foul and abusive language. Punching, scratching, gouging, head buts, kicking, etc must not be used against either your team mates or the opposition no matter what the provocation is.

No laws governing a sport can cope with every situation. Unusual situations not covered can arise. The Laws of the Sport of Bowls have been drawn up in the spirit of true sportsmanship. Common sense should be used when unusual situations not covered by the Laws arise.
All lawn bowlers should familiarise themselves with “Laws of the Sport of Bowls Crystal Mark 4th Edition, 2023”. You can order these online.

BASIC RULES YOU SHOULD KNOW (EBA - England Bowls Association)

Mat Placement: The first to play places the front edge of the mat on the centre line at least 2 metres from the ditch and up to 25 metres from the far ditch.
Foot Faulting: Before delivery a player must be standing on the mat have all or part of one foot on the mat and at delivery all or part of one foot on or above the mat.
Jack / Bowl Length: A jack must travel 23 metres from the mat line to be legal while a bowl must travel14 metres to be in play.
Jack Delivery: If the jack is improperly delivered the opposition may reposition the mat and deliver the jack but not play first. If the jack is delivered improperly by both leads the jack is placed at the 2-metre mark and the first to play may reposition the mat.
Touchers: Only the delivered bowl may be a toucher even if it deflects off other bowls before touching the jack.
Position on Rink: Players at the mat end who are not delivering a bowl should stand at least 1 metre behind the mat. Players at the head end who are not controlling play should stand behind the jack.
Playing Wrong Bowl: Replace with correct bowl
Playing out of Turn: Opposition skip has choice: a) may stop the bowl, b) leave it and have two bowls played to restore proper sequence, c) reset disturbed head and restore proper sequence, d) leave disturbed head and play two bowls or e) declare dead end.
Bowl & Jack Displacement: Numerous scenarios can arise. The opposition skip and skips have options. The options depend upon the cause and timing of the displacement. Get your rule book out!
Rink Possession: Possession of the rink belongs to the player or team whose bowl is being played.
Determining score: Bowls should never be moved until the number of shots has been agreed upon by the vice or skip.
Objects on the green: No objects should be placed on the bank, the green or in the ditch to help a player (water bottles seem to be favoured objects).
Game stoppage: If a game has been stopped for a valid reason and all bowls have not been played, the end is declared dead.
Never pick up a wood played on your green until it has come to rest and has been measured when all woods have been delivered or if it finishes in the ditch and is not a toucher or it is out of bounds.

BOWLS STRATEGY

AIM: “To secure the greatest possible advantage of shot numbers through low risk tactics, or failing that, to secure the least possible shot disadvantage”. [SOURCES: R. T Harrison, “How To Become A Champion At Bowls”; Rob Judson, “Basic Tacticsin Lawn Bowling Lawn Bowls International Coaching”]

Jack and Mat Tactics

There will always be debate as to whether the mat should be taken or given away.
Taking the mat gives the lead a feel of the green speed.
Taking the mat allows for control of jack length.
If winning using a certain length, keep that length. If not, change length.
If you wish to change length then alter mat placement.
Against an inexperienced player a full-length jack might be an advantage.
Against an experienced firm shot bowler keep some distance between jack and ditch. Makes it more difficult to put the jack in the ditch.
Observe opposition length preference so you can alter when possible.
Careless rolling of the jack can nullify strategy

Head Building Tactics

Do not overbuild the head, but strategically place bowls.
Never underestimate your opponent’s ability.
Do not be greedy.
Never be afraid to let opponent have one shot rather than risk giving several.
When holding shots, never be narrow.
When down shots, never be wide.
Avoid being short when not shot.

Singles and Team Tactics

When being outplayed, try to make opponents change hand that is being played well (e.g., by blocking).
Movement of mat can upset opponent’s rhythm of delivery.
Be aggressive when a conservative outlook is not working.
Build each end to your own strength.
A three-quarter length jack gives a good indication of green speed.
Drives and running shots should be exercised carefully when playing singles.
Attacking shots are more successful in shorter ends.
In singles, your first and third shots are of greater importance tactically.
If in doubt you should walk up to examine the head (if permitted) before rolling your bowl.
Do not hurry delivery.
Play the shot offering more than one option of attaining your goal.
Avoid wasting opportunities to add to the score.
Drives should be played only if you have back bowls.
Avoid playing “around the clock.” Play the favourable side.
Change foot position on the mat to avoid blocks.
Never block for a single, where the bowl is accessible.
Never block a big head.
Blocks are more effective on slow or medium paced greens.
Play covering bowls before attempting blocks.
Be aware of your opponent’s tactics, preferences, strengths & weaknesses.
Play your tactics so they do not suit your opponent.
In a cross wind, the narrow side is kinder.
Play short ends with the wind and long ends against it.

Jack and Bowl Lengths

The front of the mat must be placed at least 2 m from the ditch.
Measurements from the mat line are done for:
Jack length – the distance must be at least 23 m.
Legal bowl length is 14 m.
If a jack rebounds from a bowl during play, its distance must be at least 20 m.

Measuring for Shot

Measurement for shot shall be made between the nearest points of the Jack and Bowl. Always measure from the Jack to the Bowl unless the Jack is in the ditch.
Use wedges to prevent movement of either bowl or jack.
Callipers are used when the space between the Jack and Bowl does not permit the flexible measure being used. Insert callipers from top.
A thin paper may be used to determine if a bowl is frozen to the jack. [NB Placing the paper on the playing surface may help to determine if there is a gap.]
At the completion of the end the two Vices count the shots. If your team is shot, the opposing Vice removes the shot Bowl or Bowls agreed upon placing those Bowls away from the Head on a towel. If a measure is required for the balance of the shots, this should be done by the opposing Vice who has already removed the shot Bowls
When an end is completed and a measure is immediately required to determine the Shot Bowl, either Vice may measure but Must measure to their own Bowl first & then to the opponents Bowl.
Where one Bowl of Team ‘A’ is in contention with two Bowls of team ‘B’, first measure to Team ‘A’s‘ bowl, then measure to the other two Bowls
If Bowl and Jack are more than an arm’s length apart ask the opposing Vice to assist by holding the measure against the Jack.
The opposing Vice is allowed to measure if he/she has any doubt as to the shot Bowl.
The Skip is in charge of the game at all times and may question the measure or the count before the Head is raked.
If there is continuing doubt call for a neutral party or umpire to measure.
Do not remove any bowls until the count has been agreed upon.

Some thoughts for beginners

I have now completed ten seasons of playing lawn bowls and still consider myself to be a beginner with a little bit of knowledge. However, I will offer the following to give an insight as to how I have learned how to play the game so far. I know that I still have a long way to go before I will be happy with my game. I think first and foremost you have to develop a technique that will not fall apart when you are under pressure. I used YouTube to see what options were open to me. There are many videos available containing good advice on the basics and how to
improve your game. Some of the guidance is considered to be out-dated but most of the experts agree that it is up to the individual to develop their own particular (or peculiar) style.
There are however a number of points you should consider:-

Your grip – the two most common grips are the Cradle and the Claw. Books and YouTube will show you both of these grips. I started off with the cradle but moved to the claw because it stopped me being limp-wristed - please keep any comments to yourself.
Your aiming point – Your bowl has a bias – it will swing one way as you bowl – with the small circle on the side of your bowl. With this in mind, you have to aim at a point to the side of the jack to be able to hit the jack. The bowl will tend to go straight for two thirds of its trajectory and then start to bend as it loses speed. You therefore need an aiming point either two thirds of the way to your target, level with your target or a point on the far side of the green. It is an individual choice as to which option you choose. I know my woods will swing about 2 metres on a medium paced green over about 40 metres. I therefore pick a point on the bank 2 metres from the jack and then look for a point on the green to aim for 2/3rds of the distance to the jack. It works sometimes!
Once you have your aiming point, place your foot on the mat with the big toe pointing at the aiming point. Make sure your shoulders are square on to the aiming point. Bend forward from the waist, bend your knees, as you bring your other foot forward, swing your arm back (think of it as a pendulum) and release the bowl when it is level with your front foot. Try to develop a smooth action, try not to drop the bowl as it will slow it down, keep your head down and watch where the bowl goes in relation to your aiming point. If you are within 3 feet of the jack give yourself a pat on the back and remember where the aiming point is for next time. That’s all there is to it!!!
The further the arm swings as a pendulum, the further the bowl will go. Stand more upright to be able to get a bigger swing. This is important on slow heavy greens especially at the start of the season.
As mentioned above, always play down the best side of the green. For a beginner this is usually the straightest side. For example, you will, therefore, play forehand one way and backhand coming back down the green. Watch good bowlers and see what side of the green they use. Invariably, you will be asked to play first or second in the team and, therefore, will be able to use the better side of the green before the better bowlers in future ends.
Do not be frightened of asking for advice from your team mates and the opposition. I have received some great advice from opposition players which has enabled me to gain an advantage over them. 95% of people are nice and want to help.
Practice – this can seem like a dirty word and I am teased for practicing but I have always known that practice and good coaching can transform your game. The ability to ‘draw’ shots as close as possible to the jack is the key to winning games at most levels of this sport. It makes sense, therefore, to practice drawing shots to the jack. I have a simple exercise where I set up a jack on the two-metre line at both ends of the green and simply try to get four bowls as close as possible to the jack. Any bowl within one yard of the jack counts as 1. I try to score 21 points in as few ends as possible. My best score so far is 8 ends. Use this exercise to bowl on the best side of the rink at each end (forehand one way, backhand coming back). Try to score 21 using just your forehand – you experience the good and the bad side of the green. Then just your backhand. Move the jacks to medium and short lengths to become proficient at all lengths before changing the length of the jack at each end by simply bowling a jack and bowl to where it stops. Never practice on the same rink two days running. All of the rinks are different and you will learn how to pick up these differences as you practice. This ‘local’ knowledge will give you an advantage in league matches and club competitions as you will not waste woods finding out which is the best side to bowl.
Practice delivering the jack.
Get yourself a rule book and read it. It’s very boring but so much nonsense is spouted on a bowls greens. You need to certain you are not going to be misled by some numpty who thinks he might know the rules.

EBF (English Bowls Federation). You may have noticed from your application to join the club that we play competitions under EBA (English Bowls Association – now regulated by World Bowls rules) and EBF rules. EBA flat green bowls is played throughout the UK but EBF is restricted to the East coast from Northumberland down to Norfolk. Just to confuse matters EBF rules differ slightly from EBA rules. In order to help the bewildered, I will attempt to list some of the main differences you need to bear in mind if you are asked to play EBF. I am not going to pretend that this is a comprehensive list; the aim is just to give you a bit of a clue. Please visit the EBF website to see the rules. The rules are currently being messed about with - “a work in progress” - We will need to look at this again when they get their act together.

The front edge of the mat must be placed 2m from the ditch on the first end. We have poles to measure this. In all further ends, the front edge of the mat must be between 2m and 4 metres from the ditch. This rule applies to any extra ends played in the event of a draw.
The minimum cast from the front edge of the mat is 23m and the jack must be within 2m of the edge if the green. This is the same as EBA rules BUT if the lead fails to deliver the jack correctly, the opposition have a go. They can move the mat if desired. However, if the opposition fail to deliver the jack correctly then we can have another go. This process continues until one of the leads manages to deliver the jack correctly. It could be a long night.
Movement of Bowls and/or Jack during a match: I’m not going to set out the rules here but would recommend that you should note who has disturbed the bowl or jack and then refer to the rule book. The rules are different from EBA and are not straightforward. All sorts of variations to what the rules may be are put forth during matches. The only way to be certain is to look at the rules. Please note that there are no ‘touchers’ under EBF rules. Any bowl in the ditch must be removed to the bank. To prevent interference with bowls, all players not involved in delivering the jack/bowls must stand 2m behind the mat or jack. The skip may stand within 2m if he is giving instructions to the team mate about to deliver the bowl
Result of an end. The main differences are as follows:

No bowl shall count which lies more than 2m from the jack.
The placing of a finger on the jack or bowl to be measured constitutes a disturbance, and the opponents may claim the shots in question or declare it a dead end.
If a tie for the first bowl occurs or there is no bowl within 2m of the jack, it shall be declared a tied end and count as a played end. The player who cast the jack retains the right to cast it at the next end.

Default of Players: The player at the moment of delivering the jack or his bowl must have one foot entirely within the confines of the mat; the foot may be either in contact with or over the mat. Failure to comply constitutes a foot-fault. A warning should be given. Any further offences should result in the bowl being stopped and removed from the green.

Conclusion

I have waffled on enough and will stop now. I will update this guide each year to keep it relevant and to pass on more advice as I learn. Please contact me if you have any questions regarding this nonsense.
Finally, (thank goodness, I hear you cry) there is no doubt that bowls a great way to remain physically fit into your dotage. The NHS website extols the virtues of the sport both from a physical and mental point of view. Join a club and all of a sudden you have 20 plus mates to have a laugh with. I have always enjoyed meeting members of other clubs during league matches. You can always have a chat, a bit of banter and a laugh with almost all of those people you meet.

PPG 4.4.2025